Saturday, June 25, 2011

Three Rivers Storytelling Festival!

Day 17, 18, & 19 - So Much Story So Little Time

On Tuesday my migraine is gone and I am feeling well enough to go to class. Still not 100% but hey can't waste too much time being sick cause it is Ireland and there is too much to do! In class it is time for our second stories and I tell a story called the Three Questions from Glassie. In this story a Shepard who is beholden to a Bishop for giving him a chance stands up to a new invading "chief" and answers 3 questions to keep the Bishop safe. 1st question: "What am I thinkin in the morning when I get up?" Answer: "What am I goin to eat for breakfast" 2nd question: "How much sand is in all the beaches of Ireland?" Answer: "Enough to fill one cart, if the cart is big enough." 3rd question: "How much am I worth?" Answer: "29 Silver pieces" The chief puzzled by the last answer asks the Shepard how he came to that conclusion..the Shepard answers, "Because our Lord was worth 30 and surely you are not worth more than him!" The chief lets both the Shepard and the Bishop live..

On Wednesday we have Liz Weir in class. I have been lucky to have met Liz before at events in Phoenix and she is a wonderful person and amazing storyteller. This is her 7th time in Athlone telling for our Liz in her class. She is really good about answering questions from the class and she tells some good stories.

On Wednesday evening we head to the Sheraton to see the Three Rivers Storytelling Concert. The festival has been taking place all of June with great storytellers in the schools all around 3 counties of Ireland. Liz Weir and Eddie Lenihan will be the featured tellers with Liz Warren as the emcee.

I take a cab and Michelle Fish joins me so we can split the fare. I am still feeling odd so the cab is a good idea! The Sheraton is a nice venue and Michelle and I are early so we wait in the bar. She grabs a beer and I have a coke and we enjoy people watching as we wait. Finally we go upstairs and get the chance to sit with Eddie Lenihan for a while. I wish I had gotten a good picture of him to show you because he is one of the strangest looking men you will ever meet...quite the character. Black (greying now) bushy long hair, glasses, and a mustache and chops that he has let grow into beard length. On this night he mentions that he is not feeling well cause of some problem with his knees and that he has taken some medication...he is very sweet and autographs everything that we purchase. I get a book for myself and one for a friend and he inscribed both in Irish.

The concert gets started and I am disappointed that the local audience didn't show up as hoped. The SAI program makes it feel pretty full but I know they would have liked to see more locals. The concert is fun and the styeles of the two tellers could not be more different! I apologize for the lack of pictures on this blog..for some reason my camera "ate" them!

On Thursday, Eddie comes to class and we get more stories. Eddie has been collecting stories especially in the West of Ireland for years. He finds and records stories from the older members of the community and these are stories that more local in nature. Lot's of stories about the Other Crowd or the Good People (fairies) which is a very serious business here. Even the most skeptical of the Irish will not completely deny the possibility that Fairies exist and that you should not mistake them for the Disney prototypes of small and friendly creatures.Without Eddie many of these more local stories would be lost forever and he is creating an amazing legacy for the Irish people and I hope someday they will realize it and acknowledge Eddie for his work.

Next: Off to Northern Ireland...even though I am sick!

Bleck in Ireland

Day 15 & 16 - Wiped out and the beginning of the "Sick Week"  - Galway was exhausting! On Sunday morning we pack up the hostel and get on the bus for the ride back to Athlone. Everyone is wiped out so the bus ride home is pretty quiet. When I arrive back to apartment it is definitely quiet time and homework.

Monday morning rolls around and I am definitely not feeling well. Considering all the rain I am pleased that I haven't been burdened with the usual low pressure headaches here. Not today! Migraine city and tummy troubles so I email my teachers and stay home in bed. I only leave to make a quick trip to the pharmacy (called the chemist) to find drugs and get a coke.

Need to feel better soon cause this is a busy week! Posting some random pretty pictures to make the blog worth the while!

On the way to the Cliffs of Moher..so pretty!
Every field has it's own shade of green.
View from the hill at the Alwee Caves
Next: All Stories, all the time!

Monday, June 20, 2011

Inis Mor - An Incredible Day

Day 14 - Excursion to Inis Mor

Another morning full of the sounds of seagulls and street sweepers! Off today to Inis Mor, and after a night of good Craic many of the students are looking a little under the weather but all are present and accounted for so we are off! First we make our way to the Ferry which takes about an hour because we are not on a charter bus and this means that we make several stops along the way. At least this driver is quiet and a good pilot! No swiped mirrors on this trip.

Having been on ferries before, I know that I want to spend the trip outside and on the top deck so I head upstairs with about 1/2 of my fellow students. The only room left is standing near the rails...darn...such shame! (She says as she jumps up and down with happy joy joy!)

   
Obviously Distraught...poor thing. She hates it so!
Cold would be the temperature description. But so incredibly beautiful and the air is so fresh it is like breathing the very first air ever created. Just so cool! Once we get to the Island I make the decision to hang out with Christine, Erica and our intrepid leader Barry. Barry has a plan that will lead us to the most interesting points of the island so we tag along. Could not have made a better choice as we saw more of the island than almost anyone else. It involved hiring a van to take us where we wanted to go rather than where the van usually goes on a pre-determined route.

View from the Van as we travel inland.

Can you see the momma swan and her cygnets?
Erica and Christine standing at the edge of a cliff...Christine is standing on a rock!  
We stop first at Dun Aengus a fort situated at the edge of the island that is dated back to middle/late bronze age. It has good defensive characteristics as well as probable ceremonial/religious functions. There is a natural alter at the edge of the cliff and the walls are all triples in a 1/2 moon shape. Take a moment to google this place so you can see the aerial views. As we were going up to the fort we had to pause because the island search and rescue teams were performing an exercise.

Search and Rescue teams carrying down their exercise "victim"..watch those steps they are a doozy!

The walls of the fort
View from the interior fort and the edge of the cliffs
Just ocean..cause I can
Looking straight down from the edge of the cliff..maybe 200 feet?
 I could keep posting pictures but our time here is done. Time to move to our next destination and find the 7 churches. This means I leave the fort a tad earlier cause it is the only way to keep up with the Marathon Man as he runs down the hill. So far I am keeping up for the most part..again I am blessing the many trips up "A" mountain and my trainer Greg. Also helps that I have found a great blister band-aid and for the first time in 2 weeks my feet feel good!

 We meet our van at the bottom of the hill and we are off to the 7 churches. This little plot of land that holds the ruins of 7 christian churches. Each church dedicated to a different saint surrounded by a grave yard that holds graves very old and some that are more recent. Including the remains of several Roman clerics from the 8th century.


After the 7 churches where Barry goes through batteries and available memory as he documents the architecture, icons and interesting grave markers including a great example of an early Celtic Cross we are off to the next site the Light House.

View from the top of the light house
Example of a Portal Tomb

Inside another fort and on an a platform or maybe an altar
After another hike up and down a steep hill we get back to the van and head back to the area where we will catch the ferry. We grab lunch, soup and great soda bread is the best kind of lunch! Catch the ferry/bus back to Galway. Everyone loved Inis Mor and is probably going to be the highlight for many on the trip! Even those who are not big on the out doors enjoyed the beautiful day on the island. I had the option of renting a bike and biking around the island. I say this for my biking friends, Sally, Peter and Mark. Decided that my first excursion on a bike in alot of years should not be on a hilly island on a bike with questionable brakes and crazy van drivers, and horse traps to boot! But definitely would consider bringing my own bike on the ferry and riding about...definitely one of the places I will be visiting again.

Next: Back to Athlone and I don't feel so good...
Day 13 - Off to the Cliffs of Moher! On Friday morning I am awakened not only by the first early light streaming through the window of the hostel but also the sounds of the Seagulls as they shriek through the morning...better than a rooster I am telling you! Also equally loud is the sounds of the street cleaning going on down below. In the mornings all the patio seating is removed and the pedestrian only street becomes a thorough-fare for street cleaners, recyclers and beer delivery types. (I am almost sure other food and beverage is delivered but truly the number of kegs being rolled down the road is quite amazing!).

We are off on an excursion down the coast to the Burrens a geologically interesting area filled with limestone formations that were scraped clean in the last ice age and so are filled with unique flora and fauna.  The term Burren is derived from the Gaelic for "stony place".


We have an interesting bus driver, Des, an older gentleman whose storytelling skills and bus driving are suspect. He is very nice but about 1/2 of what comes out of his mouth is incorrect and in the course of the day we take out a side mirror of someone's parked car and he doesn't blink an eye at the occurrence. He stops at a pull out so we can go and take our first real look at where the Burrens meet the Atlantic a truly stunning vista and it is difficult to get back into the bus.

Crevices in the limestone
Flowers in the crevices
Just the beginning of beauty..
Wait..not me...(the beauty part!)
Love this guy! Stripes!
 So finally we get back into the bus and head off to lunch. Lunch is fun in a pub with decent food and we each get to choose our own meals unlike other expeditions where the menu is limited. The seafood chowder is good and I enjoy the tea and a chance to chat with Liz. Outside the pub is a really amazing array of signs that is fairly common in Ireland...hard to get lost!

Lost?
 Okay..now onto the Cliffs of Moher. Another hour in the bus and we reach the cliffs. There is an extensive gift shop and visitor center but I ignore it to get off to the cliffs. You can choose to go right or left. Right offers a longer trail and a viewing tower so I go there first. I could try to explain how pretty it is but I think will let the pictures show you instead.

Seriously...!
Turquoise and Malachite
Watch Tower
 Got to the end of that trail after about 30 minutes and had time to turn around and hike in the other direction. The views are still pretty but not as dramatic...


Lots of warnings about the dangers of the cliffs...also lots of signs that talk about Suicide Prevention.

Hiking along by myself gives me alot of time to consider stories and where I am in the process of learning new stories as well as looking at the older Irish material to see how being immersed in the culture and landscape is bringing new dimension to them. I am also a bit melancholy which leads me to make up a slightly sad ghost story about the Cliffs of Moher. 

After getting to the other side I start back to the Visitor Center to do some shopping. I find some fun gifts for...nope not spilling! But I am pleased with my finds and head back to the bus where after a short time the rest of the students arrive and we are on to Aillwee Cave


Another nice visitor center and gift shop...more shopping yea! I like caves alot...but I have decided seeing a cave with a large group of now unruly SAI students is not the way I want to see any cave. And this one is sort of a disappointment. Not enough science/history for me, the geek that I am! 


We get back in the bus and make another stop for vista pictures and head back to Galway. Long day and I am truly ready for food, shower, and bed. But the girls all go out to find the good Craic and I am left alone...gee what a hardship!


Next: Aran Islands and Inis Mor!

Tuesday, June 14, 2011

Story Heaven and Off to Galway!

Day 12  - Pat "the Hat" Speight tells stories and we all go to Galway. On Thursday we had an extraordinary day of listening to amazing stories from Pat Speight. Coming on top of an already amazing evening Tuesday and all the great stories being told in class,  I am filled with wonderful swirling images, words, techniques and happiness to be in the middle of so much story! Pat is an amazing teller filled with so much energy and he has a deceptively casual style that invites you in as he amazes and engages the audience. He does tricks like magic that fascinated our class as much as they would a group of primary students. He told new stories I have never heard and told great versions of stories that I have...he was a Master of his craft and it was a privilege to share this time with him.

After Barry's class we go scurry back to the apartment to pack as we are leaving for Galway at 3:30 where we will be staying for several days. Hostel living is a new experience for me but after a few questions I am ready for the adventure!

We get on the bus for about an hour's ride and get to the Hostel (Barnacles) about 5pm. I elect and I am accepted to stay in a room with 7 other women...all under the age of 21! Fun but exhausting..the Hostel is in a section of Galway that is like a combination of the French Quarter in New Orleans and maybe Mill avenue after a football game. Loud and Filled with people. Our windows face the street so the crowd noise is definitely present. The Hostel room is ensuite which means we 8 girls have our own shared bathroom. We work out who is a morning shower person and who is a night shower person. I head out on my own to do some shopping and have dinner at a lovely winebar called Druid Lane. Fish and Chips and some hot tea...just the thing!

Cruise or Ferry? In Galway Bay
Our Hostel Room
Some of you know the story and know why this reminds me of Dad!


Back to the Hostel where I read until I go to bed to the sounds of the crowds down below which begins to sound like white noise. Most of the girls come back in before 12 so we get a pretty good nights sleep.

Next: Cliffs of Moher and Alwee Caves

Sunday, June 12, 2011

Good Craic in Galway!

Day 10 & 11, - Class and a quick trip to Galway. Liz Warren my storytelling instructor and mentor has invited me to go to Galway with her to see Story Night which is both the 5th birthday and the last time Clare Murphy will be in charge and hosting this extraordinary group. We stop on the way and transfer to Danielle Allison's car for the trip. It is a nice drive although a little damp as it is...yes...raining!

But it begins to clear as we get to Galway and after a bit of circling through the center of town trying to find our location we spot a likely parking spot and find the Blue Teapot, a lovely little theater. Clare who is this incredibly beautiful woman in a stunning dress and gorgeous coral scarf directs us to Kava a tappas restaurant with fab food and we enjoy a nice dinner. (Thanks Liz!) We arrive back at the theater just in time and it is packed with an amazing dynamic group of young adults. The vibe is very bohemian and the colors, fabrics, styles and energy is just really cool. Clare told amazing stories and was followed by equally talented tellers. I wish we could have stayed for the whole thing but as we found out it later, it ran until 11:30 and the after party went till 2am.

Long drive back to Galway, enlivened by a gentleman that we took home from the event. He has some experience through his family with hands on healing and was telling us about the culture that surrounds the practice.Very interesting and surreal as well.

It was a really great night and there was definitely good Craic. This is an Irish expression that means good fun, music, entertainment, company, drinking etc...It is pronounced "crack". You can imagine how that could get you in trouble in the states!

On Wednesday I tell a short tale in class abut a short tail. My mother tells this story and it made me think of her and I knew the class would get a kick out of it. It is about a shepherd who loses a sheep in the bog and can only reach the creature to pull it out by it's tail. Sadly the shepherd pulls the tail off the sheep and now his tail is short and so is mine!

No pictures to go with this adventure..camera needed a charge.

Next: Pat the Hat and more Craic in Galway!

Dash to Dublin

Day 9 - Trip to Dublin. Yea! The word has come down that we are taking an official trip to Dublin. So we meet in the parking lot at 9am to take a bus/charter to the train station. Almost everyone is going, a few folks spent the free weekend in Dublin and they will meet us there. After a pretty train ride we exit the train and begin the walk to Dublin.

Have I mentioned that Barry walks like he is running a Marathon..ALL THE TIME! When he described the journey from the station to the museum I anticipated a mile/mile and a half. Probably closer to 3.5 miles! Walked very quickly! I was pleased that I am in good enough shape that I could keep up with him..paid for it later however..(you will have to wait for that part)


The River Liffey in Dublin

Dublin



You can see by the sky that it was threatening to rain most of the day, but fortunately we only had a few sprinkles.

So when we arrived to the Museum...horrors..it is closed because of the Bank Holiday! All are disappointed and I feel bad for Dr. Vaughan. He is like a balloon that has had all of the air taken out of it! Still we are in Dublin and so are an extra 40000+ women for a mini marathon that is run for all kinds of charities. Very crowded...we are dismissed to our own adventures for the rest of the day and I head for lunch. Now don't tell anyone but I am hungry, and tired so I go to McDonalds...YES I KNOW. Bad Laura...don't care! I meet a lovely gentleman and we have a nice lunch talking about Arizona and the mini-marathon.

When I get up I realize that it was a mistake to go from really a slow jog for 3.5 miles to a cold stop with no stretching. Not only am I really stiff, my on-going blisters are screaming at me. Still I hobble along to Trinity College and catch the Book of Kells display.




Entry into Trinity College

The campus is beautiful and the Book of Kells display is really great. However it is the long room (library) that I find the most fascinating. Filled with research, displays, old manuscripts and the smell of old leather. I wished I could have a couple of days in the room to myself with ability to pull down any book or manuscript that caught my attention.

Now with my feet screaming at me I decide to head back to Heuston station (train) as we are free to return anytime we like. I am not shooting for any particular time of departure just concentrating on making it back. I consider a taxi but think...I can walk a bit further..I'll catch the next taxi stand. Except there aren't any other stands..the whole way! I am meandering..when I hear a voice.."If you walk at that pace, we will miss the train!" No...I think to myself...I look up and yes...it is Barry! So we are off to the races again and I complete the rest of the journey at the rapid pace of the the "mad man" and we manage to catch the train and get seats.

I have decided that I must see Dublin with my sister Jennifer who loves the city. For me, too many people, and not my favorite spot. Still...I am in Ireland!

Next: On to Galway for good Craic!

The First Free Weekend

Day 7 & 8 - A Free Weekend...Saturday was another beautiful day filled with sunshine and warmer temperatures. Hard to believe we have been here a week! We got up and Cyndi headed off to a day of dance workshops in nearby Birr (she is a dance major) and Allison and I went off in search of the traditional Irish breakfast. We found it fairly closeby and after looking at the amount of food included we decided to chicken out and rather than the "Full Irish" we each had the mini-version. Still an amazing amount of food..Pork and Beans, 2 slices of toast and butter, a large slice of bacon (more like Canadian bacon) 2 links of sausage, 1 egg, Black Pudding and White Pudding. Ahh...you ask, "black pudding?" Here is a description from the BBC website. Black pudding is a blend of onions, pork fat, oatmeal, flavourings - and blood (usually from a pig). As long as animals have been slaughtered to provide food, blood sausages like black pudding have been in existence.  White pudding is similar but deletes the blood. On the whole I preferred the white pudding and not because of the blood. It just tasted better. All the above comes with a pot of tea which I have actually begun to drink with cream/milk. It is just so odd...I used to think.."why on earth would anyone put cream or milk in their tea?" and now I know it is because it is tasty.

After breakfast we wandered to the town center. I wanted to go to the bookstore at the new mall to find a book about the flora of Ireland and I wanted to go by the Library as well. The mall is pretty typical of any mall you would find here. They have national chains that are different than ours..but really if you didn't listen to the accents you would be hard pressed to determine where you were. We went to Easons and I found a great book about trees that had myths and legends associated with each tree. Allison bought some presents and postcards and we were off to the Library which is right next to the mall.

Have I mentioned this is a 3 day weekend here in Ireland? Yep a bank holiday on Monday so the Library was closed for the weekend! Drats...still we decide to wander down to the Shannon cause it is such a nice day.

Allison by the Shannon

Gee...it is sad that I am so obviously unhappy.. :)
On Sunday it was back to grey, cold and wet. Seriously spent the day with homework and resting. They run us pretty hard here so a day to re-charge was a good thing indeed!

Next: Bank Holiday Excursion to Dublin

Thursday, June 9, 2011

Trip to Loughcrew...

Day 7: Loughcrew or Slieve na Caillaigh - The Hill of the Hag was the destination for the day's field trip. On the bus at 10am we were off for about an hour's drive through the usual pretty rolling countryside. In the Midlands where we are located the hills break up the bottom of the bowl that is the topography of Ireland. All of the significant elevation occurs primarily on the shores of the island leaving the lowest elevation (the bottom of the bowl) for the center.

We get to Loughcrew gardens to eat lunch only to find that they are not ready for us...that's okay we use the toilets and get back on the bus and head for the hill. Loughcrew is the site of several passage tombs from neolithic times. That means that the incredibly huge boulders were moved by hand or maybe rolling logs from far and wide to find pieces that would fit. Some of the rocks can be traced from over 100 miles away. Remember..Neolithic over 5000 years ago. (And engineers can't keep New Orleans from flooding in modern times...)

One of the legends surrounding these tombs is that the Caillaigh (the hag or witch) was issued a challenge for supremacy of Ireland if she could gather up these stones and carry them in her apron leaping from mountain/hilltop to the next. At each location she lost some of her stones depositing them in just the right way to create the passage tombs. Many of the neolithic sites have been stripped for stones but not so much here. The legend of the Caillaigh kept the locals from taking too many of the stones in fear of reprisal. So the tombs are relatively intact and amazing to see. You can actually go in with a guide and see the interior...


Entrance to the Passage Tomb


The passage tombs generally correspond to some lunar event. Here at Loughcrew the Spring/Autumn Equinox brings a shaft of light down the passage to illuminate the inner chambers and the carving contained within.

 Steep climb up to the tombs with breathtaking views...it was a sunny/perfect day.

The Hags Seat
Me in the Hag's Seat!



Tuesday, June 7, 2011

School Starts! Day 3,4, and 5

Classes: So on Tuesday June 1st we began our classes...(not just a pleasure jaunt!) Joy of Joy's my first class is at 8:30 am and the only thing that makes this okay is that it is Storytelling! We have a full class of 21 tellers and by the time we are done we will have heard over 100 traditional Irish stories! All of my fellow students are great and seem to be willing to try and already are brilliant at the bits of storytelling we have begun. This class will be fun and Liz' energy is better than a cup of coffee! We begin by learning a story fast which is a great technique to break the ice for a bunch of new storytellers. It shows them that a story can be learned quickly without memorizing it word for word. Everyone does really well and it bodes well for the rest of the class.

I have my next class back to back and it is the Irish Religions class which is filling the geek need in me to learn cool stuff. Dr. Vaughan  (Barry) is our instructor and he begins by giving us an overview of common terms in Religious Studies and then starts us in the Neolithic Period in Ireland! So Cool! Barry's energy level is different than Liz. She radiates...he is like the energizer bunny...he never stops! This class has about 12 students and it is great that we get to spend so much time asking geeky questions.


Dr. Barry Vaughan..in lecture mode
Roommates: I am living with 2 great roommates. Alison and Cyndi. Both like me are non-traditional students (ie: we are all older than 25!) Alison and I live upstairs and share a bathroom and Cyndi lives downstairs and has her own. We eat together occasionally and hangout when we can as we are all very busy. The flat has 4 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms and a common area with a kitchen. We have the best view out of our common area into a horse field that is just stunning. Hard to tear ourselves away when it is time to get something else done.


View from our window...yep, you know you are jealous!

Next Post...Loughcrew and stories about the "Hag".